Friday, 11 February 2011

Interesting points about the bowline for knot geeks

The bowline is used quite extensively in climbing, so I thought the following snippet might be of use to others.
Bowline (left) and "Dutch" bowline (right): note tail end on outsid of knot (from wikipedia)

Following a dispute with a colleague in the UIAA I have done a little digging on the subject, although to be fair I should say Dan Middleton, the BMC technical officer has dug for me!

The discussion was about the merits or otherwise of a bowline tied with the tail end on the outside. This configuration is called a “dutch” or “cowboy” bowline, and the  research paper here suggests that it works just as well as the ordinary bowline which confirms my feeling that it is not an important distinction, though best teaching practise should demonstrate the classic bowline.
The wikipedia (here) suggests that this version knot is actually superior when the loop is subjected to loading that pulls it apart.

Thursday, 10 February 2011

MIA registration fees: what you get for your £70

When Oxford University announced the decision to charge £9000 per year for students, it led me to the following reflections:

MLT is self-funding. This means that all of our day-to-day work has to be funded from the income from registrations and publication sales. The £70.00 that each MIA registrant pays contributes to the following (not a definitive) list:

·         Possible correspondence (sometimes lengthy) over missing pre-requisites from application, along with (normally) a 6 month “grace period” if necessary
·         Support to candidates while passing through schemes including free access to a complaints investigation panel over (rare) complaints about assessment course
·         Support for life with the following services:
o   Access during office hours to information and administration service
o   Development and maintenance of syllabus, handbook, website
o   Liaison with dozens of employment and education bodies to ensure continued recognition of our qualifications
o   Liaison with professional associations (AMI, BMG, BAIML) + voluntary association (MLTA) of award holders
o   Expenses for quarterly meetings of conscripted volunteers who constitute the development board
o   Pro-active work to protect our vocational mountaineering qualifications as the “industry standard”
o   Development and publication of the online “National Guidelines” document.
o   Representation of the UK qualifications at the Union of International Alpine Association’s (UIAA) international Training Standards, resulting in increasing international recognition
o   Parallel support and development of the MIC to complement and extend the scope of MIA
o   Quality Assurance system requiring regular inspection visits to National Centre courses in Snowdonia, Scotland and Ireland (summer + winter)
o   Marketing of the awards
o   On-going development of the MLT publications “Hillwalking”, “Rockclimbing” and “winter skills”
o   On-going development of ML, SPA CWA etc. which feed into the MIA scheme.
o   Production and postage of logbook
o   Maintenance and security of a UK-wide database of mountain leaders and instructors
o   Support for AMI, the association for MIA and MIC holders. (MLT receives no income from AMI apart from an administration service contract)
o   Regular news updates on the MLT website, blog, Twitter etc.
o   Potential access to work on SPA, ML, CWA, CWL, WGL courses

Graduates at Oxford who complete their degree will have parted with £27,000 in tuition fees plus accommodation and food costs for 3 years. Most degrees do not directly qualify them to get a job without further vocational experience and/or qualifications.
By comparison, an MIA graduate will have spent £70 registration and £1500 on tuition fees, including travel costs, and this is all tax-deductible. Apart from annual insurance costs for working there are no on-going costs for MIA holders (though of course many choose to join AMI and MLTA). Many AMI holders start earning a reasonable living immediately on completion of the qualification and continue to earn a good living for the rest of their working lives. Others work in a voluntary capacity, but either way the workplace is the Great Outdoors!

I can’t think of any other industry that gives so much in return for so little outlay.

Tuesday, 1 February 2011

Guidebook work is never finished

The Tremadog guidebook was a succesful project but it was impossible to personally check every route, and indeed I feel that the strength of a club production is in developing means to involve the membership, who collectively are likely to have climbed far more of the routes than I can ever hope to. However, that's no reason not to continue researching for myself, or perhaps I should rephrase that - I love climbing at Tremadog!

Sunday 29th January was blessed mainly with clear skies, and although the frosts still lingered it was reasonably warm in the afternoon, so I dragged out my long-suffering son for some exploration of the isolated buttresses to the west of Craig y Castell. We found that thanks to discreet but convenient abseil anchors we were able to complete several climbs in quick succession and check their neighbours. We climbed Gestiana  (E1, slighly over-rated at 2 stars), followed by Pryderi (E1) and Pert (E2) both well worth 2 stars if you ignore the muddy and brambly link between the approach pitch (with its perplexing crux) and the upper buttress.


Saturday, 22 January 2011

Busy weekend for all the mountaineering associations!

Its been a busy weekend for all mountaineering associations. On Friday 21st, a meeting at Glenmore Lodge brought together representatives from  the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI), British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML), British Association of Mountain Guides (BMG),  and Mountain Leader Training Association (MLTA) including their respective training officers. The main aim of the meeting was to share details of the training schemes that underpin association membership and to compare notes about continuing personal and professional development.  
MLT's Associations Collaboration Working Group viewing presentations
After a successful meeting, Paul Platt from(AMI) and myself headed over to Alan Kimber's bunkhouse to join a workshop entitled "Working the Ben"; discussing efficient link-ups and alternative itineries for various prevailing conditions. Based at the same accommodation are an MLTA workshop and the BMG winter training course, and up on Aonach More we bumped into a sales team training day for Mountain Equipment run by Plas y Brenin. All-in-all a highly social day for a wide cross-section of winter Mountaineering Instructors and Guides!

Climbing the Nid ridge on Aonach Mor


Wednesday, 19 January 2011

Sportscoach UK publishes reports on its vision for coaching

The vision for coaching within the UK is a constantly evolving picture. MLT is developing a coaching scheme specifically for climbers but it doesn't do any harm to look sideways. Here are a couple of reports you may find interesting.

Sports Coaching in the UK III
sports coach UK has published Sports Coaching in the UK III.

The report provides a high-level picture of the use of coaching, as well as an insight into the current coaching workforce and its key characteristics.

To view the report please click here

sports coach UK's Coaching Children Action Plan: An Industry Approach
sports coach UK’s Coaching Children Action Plan 2010–2013 seeks to develop a sustainable, child-centred approach to the delivery of coaching for children, recognising the needs of delivery partners within each country.

It aims to provide solutions to some of the most pressing issues within children’s sport, bringing together all stakeholders and partners with a role to play in realising our vision; UK Coaching Excellence, enabling all children to follow their dreams, have fun and fulfil their potential.

The Plan - which is a live document - was produced with the support of industry partners.

 To view the plan please click here

Monday, 17 January 2011

Climbing wall action

Dave Turnbull and Elfyn Jones from the BMC
Last night at the Beacon climbing wall saw quite a big presence from BMC office staff. The photo shows gentle giant Dave Turnbull pulling hard on small holds on a route graded 7a at the Beacon - not known for its soft grading! The Beacon is named after the Marconi radio centre that occupied the original building, an historic landmark in the development of global communications. More recently the building gained a more colourful reputation as a strip joint before being brought respectability by the climbing community!

Interestingly enough Dave was seen providing some coaching advice for his young protogee. Perhaps we will see Dave signing up for the proposed coaching qualification next year?



Wednesday, 12 January 2011

4 seasons in a fortnight.

Calum Muskett climbing Devil's Appendix on Boxing Day
 Today is mild and wet in Snowdonia, but not long ago it was a very different story. Within a fortnight we've had off-piste skiing, rare ice-climbs in condition and also reasonable cragging weather. Bryn Williams was skiing in Chamonix before Christmas and I've recently returned from the British Mountain Guides in-service ski technique course, delivered by top Swiss coaches (or instructors?) from Leysin, Switzerland. Another opportunity to marvel at Swiss public transport with immaculate hourly service and connections even on New Year's Day. The photos show highlights from the Christmas break.


The Teasdales approaching the Devil's Kitchen crags