Zirve Tutor Training

Zirve Tutor Training, a set on Flickr.

A highly successful course for 6 strong climbing instructors from the new UIAA member organisation, Zirve. Building from lessons learned on MIA training courses and the recent Train the Trainers course developed in partnership with Plas y Brenin, this course was delivered at Olympos, Turkey. Starting with sports climbing and a successful assessment of the candidates personal climbing standard, the course progressed on to teaching principles on progressively more difficult working environments, culminating in 2 new multi-pitch routes, one of which is destined for instant "classic" status at UIAA Grade IV+. Staffing the course were MLTUK's Steve Long and ENEQ's Ron Whitehead, with support from the Petzl Foundation.

Testament (6c+)

Testament (6c+)
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

Chris Parkin and I headed over to one of our old stamping grounds - Chris is the N.Wales Bolt Fund Supremo but his heart is in adventure climbing. Today though was the blackest day I've ever seen without a physical downpour. We managed to climb 5 great routes (albeit slightly damp!) before the afternoon rain finally arrived. Yes, a real birthday treat for me!                                
Steve Long,11/11/11

Chris Parkin climbing this classic pitch at Pen Trwyn as storm clouds gather

Old Man of Coniston

IMG_0489
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

Spot the old man! International delegates take a day from the Annual General Assembly at the Bellview Hotel in Bowness on Windermere, to sample the delights of UK hill walking. They got a slightly unrealistic insight into the British fells with a cloudless and windless day. We followed the international tradition of shaking hands and sharing a bottle on the summit!

Pete Stacey, the Chair of MLTUK and myself had been invited to give a presentation about the relationship between MLT and the IML qualification, and opportunities presented by the UIAA Training Standards respectively. These appeared to be well received by the delegates - time will tell!

Gimmer String

Gimmer String
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

At last! A day out on trad rock. This was my first visit to Gimmer Crag since 1980!! Fantastic climbing in full sun albeit a chilly breeze. Will Hurford and I kicked off with Springbank, a lovely pitch up a cracked slab with a spicy overlap near the end of the difficulties. There is a handy abseil station out to the left (facing outwards) but its a slightly disconcerting mix of chain with rusty maillon and padlock. Works a treat for most routes on the "west" face (south-facing!) though. We followed this with a fantastic groove pitch: Equus. This turned out to be a true classic featured in "Hard Rock" the famous "whats what" of British climbing. I followed my nose up the second half based on a quick skim of the guide - "move up Kipling Groove for a bit and then step left" - so ended up on the equally magnificent top pitch of Gimmer String. An unconventional but enjoyable "mash-up". What a fantastic venue for a sunny autumn day.