Ogwen Valley during an MIA course

DSC03419.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

I helped out on an MIA course earlier this week; a great opportunity to meet candidates and also work alongside some old friends. Later in the week I also delivered an AMI Trainees workshop. I do feel that its important for the technical staff to stay current with the qualifications; it certainly makes it easier for me to justify my position within Quality Assurance.

This year has been unbelievably busy for me, which is why I haven't been updating the blog regularly. I will probably just cancel my efforts to run one for Mountain Training and just maintain a personal blog in the future. Its so easy to output pictures from Flickr into this blog, so as this is not regarded as a useful part of the MT social networking policy I will just continue to use it for myself. Not sure if anybody reads it anyway!

Paddling at Holme Pierrepoint

DSC01416.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

The BCU kindly invited me to observe a pilot coach tutor training course at their headquarters in Holme Pierrepoint. It was a long overdue first visit to the whitewater course for me, though I was not tempted to get into a boat and sample it at closer quarters. The course gave a really useful insight into the priorities for coach training identified by the BCU, one of our closest cousins in the adventure sports qualifications world.

Eraserhead, Gogarth

DSC01365.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

This has been an excellent week for climbing as long as you picked sun or shade according to the temperature. Pete Johnson and I headed over to Gogarth on Wednesday 29th May with the Main Cliff as our objective, with low tide at 11.00. We arrived to find low water but our intended route, Dinosaur was still in the shade and looking decidedly damp. So we decided to tackle Eraserhead, a route that I previously climbed about 15 years ago. At that time it had been graded at E6 so it had seemed like a big challenge at the time. Nowadys the consensus is that E5 is a more fitting grade, albeit "distinctly uphill" throughout. And so it proved; we enjoyed a fantastic climb bathed in sunshine and reached the top in time to attend the BMC Cymru area meeting kindly hosted by the RSPB cafe at South Stack.

British Mountain Guides open day

SteveMLT's photostream on Flickr.

This year's open day was attended by 6 prospective future Guides. I joined them for the afternoon's cragging (after a morning of tree felleing at home!) The weather was decidedly suspect so we drove over to Wales's "rain shadow" where sure enough the rock was dry and almost warm! My partner Rich and I swung leads on the classic E1, "Last Slip" a Joe Brown classic that was previously a real "sandbag" at HVS.

Mr Softy Wen Zawn

Mr Softy Wen Zawn
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

A panoramic shot giving a hint of the spectacular position of this modern classic "rock" climb - the clue is in the name! I've been wanting to climb this adventurous route since watching a team climb it during the BMC International Climbing Meet several years ago. Yet another amazing day out at Gogarth, interspersed between days in the office and dodgy showers inland. This particular route was the most enjoyable outing, though earlier battles included "Barbarossa" (E6+) and The Cruise (E5).

UIAA Mountaineering Commission meeting

Night out in Novi Sad
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

The UIAA Mountaineering Commission met in Novi Sad, April 20-21st, hosted by the Serbian Mountaineering Federation. We made good prgress on several issues, notably the regulations for the Training Label, which takes the successful Training Standards to its logical format and introduces a pricing structure for a sustainable operation worldwide.
Another interesting development was clear support worldwide for protecting areas for adventure climbing, i.e.without bolt protection.
The traditional values working party is chaired by the celbrated mountaineer Doug Scott, and there are clear implications for training since the skills of leader placed protection can be taught, thereby empowering climbers to manage their own protection on climbs.
The possibility of setting up a "nut fund" to complement bolt funds was also discussed, as in some countries leader-placed equipment is hard to obtain.

MIA rescue day

DSC00440.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

On Friday 13th I helped out on an MIA course at Plas y Brenin. It was a lovely sunny day and it was great to get out again with my old and not-so-old colleagues and some keen young students. I really enjoyed planning a tour through various scenarios on realistic climbing terrain. We climbed Rienetta and the first (traverse) pitch of Meshach.

Via Flickr:
Time Neill and MIA candidates hanging around on an MIA training day

Almost having a winter after all

It must be winter again because the rain has gotten colder. And more continuous. But we've managed to get out for a few days every afternoon over the Easter break: checked out a few lines on the Hornby Crags below te Marine Drive on Pen Trwyn, mostly sports climbs but also a fun adventure on a trad line called "The Enemy" with my son Sion, completed just before the drizzle returned. Today (Easter Monday) took more perseverance though as the rain persisted most of the day and a cold breeze sprang up. Dave Evans introduced me to the delights of bouldering in Parisellas Cave, something I've successfully hitherto avoided. I managed to get both feet off the ground so it was more successful than anticipated.We grabbed 3 routes before the rain returned; long enough also to check out Lower Pen Trwyn where, not surpsisingly, everything was gopping wet.

Coaching Processes workshop

Some video from the Coaching Processes workshop for the FUNdamenatls development team. This event took place on 20th March but this is my first opportunity to make and post a rough edit from one of the sessions. I think that the video above provides an interesting insight into the value of video analysis. I've included side-by-side footage taken from two different angles; I only had one camera so the climber had to repeat the easy boulder problem twice - interestingly enough the pace and movement was very similar each time.

Comparing the two climbers is very interesting as well - we see two very different styles: neither is "right" or "wrong", but we can clearly see one climber who makes more use of upper body strength while the other is more reliant on foot placements and flexibility. The latter style will pay dividends on technical climbs with small holds. Both climbers are very experienced and have climbed at very high technical levels; the first is Ian Dunn  and the second is Katherine Schirrmacher.

Katherine's style may be compared to an ice climber, where the feet are moved high, suspended from straight arms, then the powerful leg muscles are used to project the climber upwards, with the hands used more for balance than pulling. The sideways footage shows how the pelvis moves out from the wall to position the feet then pulled towards the wall, often by dropping a knee, so that the upwards push takes place with the centre of gravity pulled more over the feet. Body rotation is quite evident here as well and became even more obvious when I filmed a further ascent with her wearing a chalk bag - the trajectory taken by the chalk bag provides a clear marker for the pelvis rotation.

Driving in France this year?

New French driving laws are expected to be enforced vigorously. Take note:

1.  This year, sat navs which show the position of speed cameras were made illegal. (radar detectors always have been): Fine 1500 euros.

2.  Throughout Europe, a third to a half of all road deaths are alcohol related. In July this year French law will require all vehicles to carry a usable breathalyser. Cheap disposable ones should be available on the ferries or at airports for under 5 euros. On the spot checks start in November.

i) The new alcohol limit has been set at 0.05% which is about two glasses of wine or three beers.
ii) Fine for drivers with blood alcohol 50 - 80 mg/100ml is 135 euros and 6 points.
iii) Fine for over 80mg/100ml is 4500 euros, loss of licence and two years prison.
 

3.  As well as the breathalyser, all vehicles must carry first aid kit and fire extinguisher, spare headlight and indicator bulbs, warning triangle and flourescent jackets for all occupants. All foriegn vehicles must show a national identifier on rear, on or close to the number plate. Fine for non-compliance 90 euros.

4. French speed limits are also tougher than in the UK, often with different upper limits -

i) For driving in the wet and dry
ii) For driving with a trailer that weighs over 3.5 tonnes
iii) For driving if holding a licence for less than two years

iv) Motorists driving at more than 25km/h above the speed limit can have their licence confiscated on the spot, while speeding also attracts on-the-spot fines.

New database up and running

I can't believe that the day has come when I would get excited about a database! And the incredulity is on several levels:

• It worked well from day 1
• we can access meaningful information about award holders instaneously
• you will be able to access your own data
• we can help people to develop throughout their careers.
• I can't believe that its actually happened!

The database powers an amazing new website that will completely transform the way that you interact with Mountain Leader Training. It is user friendly and easy to use. Hopefully now you will be able to find information about the qualifications and your own training records without having to wade through layers of information about Boards, Councils etc etc.

We still have a few matters to clear up at Board level before the website goes live as well. But here's a sneak preview of how easy it will be to access your own training information. To avoid problems with data protection I've posted up a copy of my own information. Notice all the other tabs; pretty self-explanatory really.

93 million miles: a rarely repeated esoteric at Gogarth

93-million-35.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

Its been a really frustrating season for everybody hoping to push their winter climbing hard and currently Scotland is experiencing record temperatures for warmth in February. But on the other hand that has meant that its been possible to grab the occasional mild dry day. However, matching weather to destination has proved difficult and this weekend was a good example - perfect conditions at Gogarth on Saturday followed by pervading damp on all the coastal limestone crags on Sunday. It's raining now (monday); mild and wet, just like summer!

21/2/12: Teaching Lead Climbing (+CWLA induction)

untitled-31.jpg
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

A popular exercise at the workshop at the Big Rock wall at Milton Keynes today: Extreme clipping! A bouldering crux presented by difficult clip for short trail rope. Good fun!

The workshop was attended by 21 enthusiastic climbers. Some of these are still working towards the Climbing Wall Leading Award qualification themselves while most are already providers of the Climbing Wall Award. With input from Guy Jarvis (ABC/NICAS) Joby Davies (CWLA provider) Jon Garside (BMC/MLTE Technical Officer), Malcolm Creasey (MLTE guru) and myself delivering sessions it was an enjoyable gig that played to all our strenghts. Thanks are due to all the participants for their enthusiasm. When Malcolm and I set off for the taxi at 5.00 we left behind several participants still cranking their way up the wall.

Coaching climbing update

Last year's coaching symposium was oversubscribed and very well received. Riding in that success, a second symposium will be delivered on 24 - 25 March 2012 at Calshot Activities Centre near Southampton.

With a new program and more practical sessions, the theme for 2012 is performance clubs. The intended audience is similar to those who attended in 2011, namely coaches working in climbing walls, predominantly with children who take part in national and local competitions.

However, the vast majority of the program is of equal relevance to coaches working with adults and children who simply wish to improve, and have little or no interest in competing.

The symposium is subsidised with funding sourced by the BMC from Sport England. With rates even lower than they were in 2011, the Symposium represents excellent value for money. There are about 70 places on the symposium and as of Febraury 17th, 45 have already been booked. So if you are thinking of coming, you had better get your booking in soon! 

Book your place on the seminar here

Mountain Leader Training UK is developing climbing coaching awards, and during the symposium there will an opportunity to hear about progress to date, and feed into future developments.

If you would like a top tip on how to get a foot onto the coaching ladder quickly when it is introduced next year, here it is: look out for the gradually extending range of Long Term Participant Development (LTPD) courses currently offered by the Mountaineering Councils, and get on them. These will be integrated into the scheme for the Assistant Coach and Coach training elements and so the sooner you attend these courses and start gaining experience at trying out the ideas, the better.

Knot session for NMA trek leaders

Knot session for NMA trek leaders
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

Watching the young tutors planning, delivering and reviewing their teaching sessions was a truly heart warming and rewarding experience. Here Binot, a keen young tutor works alongside Pasa, a Scout Leader from the nearby International Scout camp teach Nisha, a TV producer to tie a figure of 8 knot. By the end of the course Nisha and the other 5 students showed great development in hill walking skills, and Nisha was looking forward to enrolling onto an NMA basic mountaineering course.

Some of the ex-students are now planning climbing trips: at least two of them have their eyes set on Everest but some of the others are now preparing together for a climbing trip to the Langtang Himalaya. They will be setting off in a few days - I'm sure they'll have a great adventure together!

Loads more great photos from this course at Flickr: just click the photo to find the link

Nepal Mountaineering Association Trek leaders

P1020981
Patrick Manier and Vignayek with students

MLTUK's Steve Long worked alongside Patrick Magnier (seen in this photo) on an experimental but succsessful course where former trainees from the NMA/Petzl Foundation trek leaders' training scheme were trained as tutors to work under the supervision of qualified Nepalese instructors. Working with us were two Nepalese Guides: Lakpa Sherpa and Jyamchang Bhote. The experiemental bit was using real students for the trainee tutors to work with. The end result for both tutors, students and instructors was startlingly successful.


Sunrise at NMA's training centre at Kakani

This final installment in the long-running project by the Petzl Foundation handed over the administration of the scheme to NMA with the intention that once it is fully established, NMA will apply to the UIAA for accreditaion. 
Working with minimal resources and intermittent power cuts, this was a challenging but immensely rewarding project. The UIAA Mountaineering Commission also hopes that the longstanding Slovenian supported Basic Mountaineering scheme in Nepal will also be nominated for Training Standard accreditation. More photos and some film footage can be found at the Flickr hosting site by following the photo link.

A similar project is still ongoing in Ladakh; this will be another international training team project, possibly including an instructor from Nepal.

The graduates

P1010470
Man, Vinayek and Mingmar, by SteveMLT

Man, Vinayek and Mingmar, 3 of the students on last week's course. This week they are helping 2 Nepalese Guide/Instructors and 2 IFMGA Guides to deliver a similar trekking skills course to fellow compatriats. The course is fairly similar in content to the Accompanateurs (EML) course before the full winter component was added.

Some of the students are atteding the course as a primer for the NMA Basic Mountaineering Course (which has a long waiting list), some want to go together to climb Island Peak, a few work as trekking guides (with some impressive peaks to their names, and may years' experience!). Currently we have 6 new students from a similarly eclectic background including an actress/director. Perfect weather again this morning, but no water or electricity today so I'll sign off before my laptop's batteries go flat - today is the last and only internet access we'll get for the week.

Coaching Climbing Technical Group

Coaching Climbing Technical Group
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

The 2-day "lock-in" planning event at Plas y Brenin !9-20th January 2011 was a great success! Over an intensive 2 days we thrashed out the remaining questions about the delivery mechanism for training and assessment of level 1 and 2 coaching, with the medium term aim of piloting the constituent modules over the next few months.

From LtoR: Jon Garside, Martin Chester, Dave Binney, Ian Dunn, Tom Greenall, Neal McQuaid, Steve Long

Route reading on a coaching course

Route reading with Neil and Libby
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

I was invited by Neil Gresham to watch his coach training course at the Westway climbing wall, and the chance arose to take a day out from the office and travel down to London to see the second half of the "Technique" module. Neil runs a coach training scheme which focuses on a particular type of coaching, which might loosely be described as intense development sessions and courses for intermediate through to advanced sport climbers. The training scheme therefore contains many elements that will eventually be included within the National Coaching Qualifications when they are introduced. Levels 1 and 2 should be ready for launching in early 2013, with Level 3 to follow, hopefully within a further 18 months. Neil's coaching courses provide training in elements that will be included within Levels 2 and 3, providing interesting CPD for anybody seeking to develop their coaching repertoire for this kind of coaching work.

Comes the Dervish

DSC00033
Originally uploaded by SteveMLT

The unseasonally mild conditions have given a dry day at last. After a morning spent mending the garden greenhouse and shed, we set off for Tremadog but were diverted by the sight of the Dervish slab glistening in the winter sun. This wonderful pitch is one of the truly great slab routes: a perfect crack line splitting the great slab above Llanberis. Apart from the rather serious start the route is well-protected with an assortment of wires and cams.

Via Flickr:
Comes the Dervish: classic slate climbing on a sunny winter afternoon

MLT at the Outdoor Show

Rachael has just spent two days at the Outdoor Show in London and now it's my turn so it's early train on Saturday morning for me. Back Sunday night from the madding crowds.
Mal

British Mountain Guides Open Day 2012

Here's an open invitation sent out by the British Mountain Guides: should be a good day!

The British Association of Mountain Guides, BMG, is to hold an Open Day at Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig North Wales on Saturday 19^th May 2012.

This day is aimed at promoting the mountain guiding profession as a career and explaining the BMG training scheme.

It is open to alpinists who would like to find out more about mountain guiding as a career.

This is a great opportunity not only to meet the BMG Training officer and the guides involved in the training scheme, but also to get to know BMG guides who can assist you on your road to becoming an IFMGA guide.

The BMG was formed in 1975 and is a full member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) representing twenty two countries in all. The IFMGA sets the standards for training of guides worldwide and the IFMGA badge worn by guides has become the assurance of the highest professional and technical standards.

Guides working in the European Alps are legally obliged to become a member of the IFMGA. The completion of the BMG training scheme entitles a guide to become a member of the IFMGA.

The life of a mountain guide can be very demanding and it is important from the outset that we attract the right calibre of climbers and mountaineers who would like to join the BMG and become a member of the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA).

All participants for this open day must have extensive British and Alpine climbing and mountaineering experience and have a genuine interest in guiding as a career.  This day should be of particular interest to experienced alpinists and MIC holders who have alpine experience.

The pre requirements for joining the BMG training scheme are that you should have completed approximately 50 routes of E1/5b, a similar amount of British Winter routes at Grade IV/V. You should also have completed about 20 alpine routes of which 10 must be TD and 5 of these 10 should be serious and committing routes of a mixed nature at least 800m in length. Experience in the greater ranges is also accepted. You should also have logged about 30 days ski touring. Please consult the BMG website (www.bmg.org.uk) for a complete list of entry requirements.

Do not worry if you haven’t yet achieved this level of experience as part of the open day is to give you advice on how best to attain these pre requisites. You should however expect to be able to meet these pre requirements within the next 5 years. If in doubt send in an application and we will advise you.

Programme (subject to change):

Saturday 19^th May 2012

9.15 Assemble in main lecture theatre at PyB

9.30 Introduction and Outline for the Day

9.45 The BMG Training and Assessment Scheme, presentation by Terry Ralphs (BMG training officer) and course convenors.

10.45 How to meet the pre-requirements talk by Andy Teasdale

11.15 Break Tea and Coffee

11.45 Questions

12.00 Lunch (provided by BMG)

13.00 Outdoor practical sessions. A chance to climb with experienced BMG Guides, discuss the training scheme and any guiding/instruction techniques. Crag Venue tba, depending on conditions.

18.45 Informal drink at PyB bar

20.00 Lecture:- “The life of a Mountain Guide” Open to public

Sunday is a day, where by, you might like to stay in North Wales and climb with the other participants.

This is a great chance to form new friendships and potentially an exciting step into a new career.

As it is important to get some idea of numbers for this event, and a clear idea of your ability, please use the application form which can be downloaded from the BMG website www.bmg.org.uk     

or by contacting the BMG office: BMG, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig LL24 0ES. Email: guiding@bmg.org.uk

Tel 01690 720386, Fax 01690 720248

There is a small charge of £30 to cover lunch and all presentations / activities on this day. This should be paid when you send in your booking form. Please pay by cheque payable to “British Mountain Guides”

Application forms must be submitted by email or post before the 1^st May 2012. You will then be contacted with further information before the 10^th May. If you need further information please contact the BMG office