Winter arrives early

So, with so many roads blocked across the UK, what are the winter conditions like? Currently things are quite unstable due to the new snowfall and winds. However, Black Ladders is starting to look quite wintery. Closer up though it is pretty lean and although ice is starting to build it has a way to go. Llanberis Pass is looking pretty wintery and if it stays cold Cascade should be climbable pretty soon.

Yesterday I had picked up some sort of virus so I had a pounding headache and hacking cough. However, I didn't want to let my partner down as it was his first chance to climb in weeks, so I literally staggered up the hill with him. We climbed a line to the right of Central Gully named Gallipoli (V). It's an excellent route though the crux pitch was pretty hard due to the lean conditions. As so often with a day on the hills the virus worked its way through my body pretty quickly - you sink into survival mode - which is fine as long as you don't have an epic day, in which case the lack of reserves can be dangerous. Fortunately despite a late start we were back home before 18.00 and I was able to warm up in front of a hot fire.

Mark Walker leading the crux of Gallipoli in lean conditions