Saturday 4 June 2011

Craig y Don

Fisnishing the crux of The Tyndale
Rocio and I decided to go for a day of red-pointing on Pen Trwyn limestone, so packed accordingly. It just goes to show that you need to keep your options open for climbing: the whole of the Marine Drive was shut to both vehicles and pedestrians for the day, so we ended up calling in at Craig y Don, where we were fortunately able to have a look at another team's guidebook - at least I had a selection of wires so after climbing the easiest sport route on the crag we were able to climb a couple of trad pitches, both very worthwhile - though one felt very fierce for the grade as the holds after the crux were quite dirty and vegetated. We climbed The Tyndale (6c+ but with a hard clip for a sport route), New Wave (E3 6a and delightful) and finally The Cruel Sea (E3 6a - old school E3 - i.e. the holds think that they are on an E4).

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