Dodgy weather this week so Mike Pycroft and I nipped out twice after work to the slate quarries, which dry relatively quikly to tackle a couple of enjoyable multi-pitch new routes from Ian Lloyd Jones, weighing in at 7a and 7a+ respectively. Great additions to the quarries and clearly a lot of work involved in equipping the lines. Both routes are logical contenders for sport routes, as the rock is quite friable and traditional protection would fail.
Both routes have very difficult cruxes that are much harder than the rest of the routes; indeed I would suggest that a more enjoyable experience can be had in both cases by just climbing the top 60 metres (at perhaps 6b+ and 6c+ respectively).
This photo shows the key to the crux of Super Massive Black Hole. This took me ages to work out, not helped by pulling off the left hand hold in this photo! Or by the pool of water in the borehole pocket that kept spilling over onto the high toehold.
Tim Neill found this sequence easy but he bridged up it - my leg span is half a metre less so this wasn't an option though I did practically dislocate my hip trying! so a high rock-over on the right wall is the answer for most mortals combined with walking your hands up the left wall. Typical slate weirdness. We topped out as darkness and drizzle arrived. The party behind us (a dusk start!?) were not so lucky but were able to escape through a tunnel near the first stance
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